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An Evening With Oliver

“In an ideal world,” Oliver Gift ponders, sitting, arms crossed in the back of the dimly lit dining room of LowCountry “I’d be cooking in a rural area. I’ve always dreamed of being an expat, cooking food that I know how to do, relaxing, chilling out.” Chilling is not exactly in Gift’s schedule these days, head chef at a hot new Southern restaurant in the bustling West Village. Growing up in Nebraska, cooking at his grandmother’s with nothing more than a steak knife and a cutting board, Gift has always been a proponent of home-style. He jokes that growing up with football players, he “had to figure out how to work my way in with the ladies.” Kidding aside, cooking is hardly a pastime for this Nebraskan, who brings along quite a pedigree to the kitchen at LowCountry. Making his debut in New York fine dining at the age of 21, earning a coveted spot on the line at Westchester’s Blue Hill, and then at Commerce, Oliver Gift has climbed his way up in one of the world’s toughest restaurant scenes, taking the farm to table skill he has garnered and putting it to use now at LowCountry, where the bourbon flows, and the food is far from meat and potatoes.


Lowcountry, serving fare from the coastal regions of the Carolinas, has a decidedly southern charm about it; the service is gracious and the menu holds an unwavering commitment to its namesake flavors. Few patrons begin their meal without the pork sliders, loaded up with a house cole slaw. Deviled eggs are whipped into fluffy submission, speckled with bacon and chives. Spicy pimento cheese is served in a mason jar, and the creamy perfection is to be spread generously on the crispy toasts; the smokey and pungent flavors left us in silent awe. With a menu boasting an array of seasonal ingredients, we advise you ask your waiter what they picked up at the Union Square market this morning. We dove in to the denizen favorite, a bourbon-cider glazed pork chop, riotously succulent, with a subdued sweet finish.  Bourbon enlivens the cocktail menu as well, and inventive drinks flow from the bar, like the Ginger Julep, animated with Jalapeno infused ginger. Finish with the Chocolate Rolo Cake, drizzled in caramel and cradling a generous scoop of melting vanilla bean ice cream.

Feast on, West Siders, the Crew’s all here

Step into the dim dining room and find yourself awash with the smells of aioli and chili. Witness eager diners sitting in front of heaping plates of pork shoulder, pickled radish, fish sauces, bowls brimming with succulent crab legs. Fatty Crab, a favorite for adventurous West Siders still holds the attention of diners and critics alike, commanding notice for its irresistible flavor, and an undying inventiveness.

The food is Malaysian, with riotous abandon. Liberties are taken, incorporating flavors from across South East Asia. A cocktail bar greets you, behind which you can find exotic flavors from toasted cardamom to crème de violette. The Lower West is a perfect refresher in the hot summer, topped with ginger beer and lemon. The Fatty Manhattan is not to be underestimated, enlivened with a smoky cherry coke.

When you order, you are forewarned; dishes are to be shared and arrive as ready, without sequence. The kitchen staff is omnicompetent, managing to fit our order to a smorgasbord of preferences. On a more recent foray, our order was a complete surrender to the desires our appetites, starting with a fried okra amuse bouche amplified by a shot of cool PBR. Quail egg shooters were next, lined up by variety of sambal. They make a steamed bun that folds a succulent offering of pork, “fatty” being the operative word here. A watermelon pickle rests on a succulent cube of pork belly, unmistakable for its inventive presentation, and packing a flavor punch of fresh ginger.

The crab is a feast of flavor, drenched in a chili sauce that is heavy on the butter and certifiably addictive. Far from civilized, we found ourselves absorbed in a gluttonous feast of the hefty legs, cleaning them of their tender meat. A nod to the Fatty Crew in the open kitchen to let them know, we would be back for more. Makan, Makan, Makan!

A Cocktail to Remember: The Vinatta Project

We’ve all been there; it’s Thursday night, you’re looking to unwind after a long day and a nice post-work drink excursion fits the bill.  However, with cocktail lists popping up everywhere that include ingredients that range from exotic to downright bizarre, finding a simple libation to quench your thirst can be quite the endeavor these days.  Here to take the hassle and guess work out of your order are the folks at The Vinatta Project.  With bespoke cocktails fashioned by simply saying “savory,” “gin,” or even “cucumber,” you’re just a few descriptive words away from cocktail nirvana.

Perusing the array of ingredients assembled in the bar’s mixology station, it’s quite apparent that the stylish barkeeps know what they’re doing; one taste of your drink will confirm just that.  My initial cocktail was a gin-based twist on the classic martini with jumbo stuffed olives and a splash of liquid smoke.  An easily sippable (and potent) drink, it accompanied me to a seat in the posh leather booth where a delicious meal would soon unfold.  A basket of fresh bread and an aggressive family-style order later, I ventured on to a tequila-based jalapeno infusion with watermelon juice and a touch of agave.

As plate after mouth-watering plate arrived at the table, we first road-mapped the offerings before us then began our well-varied culinary adventure.  The Tuna Two-Way dish paired wonton crisps with spicy tuna as well as an avocado puree; across the plate, a fresh piece of sashimi was complemented by a soy broth.  A plate of ribs satisfied the carnal hankering for BBQ and duck-fat fries were a carnivorous take on pommes frites (not to mention, a table favorite). The heirloom tomato and rocket salad dialed back the richness with clean, crisp flavors – necessary before digging in to the skillet of cheesy stone grits awaiting us.  Also necessary?  A final bespoke cocktail, hand crafted to perfection to cap off a fuss-free evening I’d be happy to repeat on the regular.

Taste Savant’s Top Five Restaurant Picks

Our friends at Taste Savant, a new, highly curated restaurant discovery site, are making it easier than ever to find quality restaurants in New York.  Taste Savant curates and aggregates reviews and restaurants only from trusted sources including your friends, restaurant critics, chefs, bloggers, and other legitimate users.  You won’t find 10,000 restaurants in NY and 1000 reviews per restaurant from people you don’t know on their site; but rather you’ll find only the very best restaurants and reviews from people you trust.  Taste Savant makes it a cinch to find your next dining destination, and Savored is now collaborating with them to help you save a few bucks in the process! Using their website, search “dining deals” under occasions, to find restaurants that are Savored-approved and start saving on your next meal out. Here are some of their favorites that fit the bill:

La Promenade Des Anglais

Not only are critics raving about Alain Allegretti’s fabulous Mediterranean fare, but also some of Taste Savant’s most discerning users have given it a thumbs up. Decked out with all the charms of an art-deco eatery straight from the south of France, La Promenade Des Anglais is not to be missed. Be sure to try the prosciutto and clam croquettes, which were highly recommended by Pete Wells of the New York Times.

 

Parea Bistro

With an expansive menu and a nearly unparalleled wine list, Parea Bistro is undoubtedly one of the best Greek restaurants in New York City. Chef Ioannis Benetos approaches Greek cuisine with a curious level of sophistication, finding new assignments for seemingly hackneyed ingredients, thereby transforming ordinary, rustic Greek fare into elegant, refined plates. Digging in at Parea Bistro is akin to excavating the myriad of age-old Greek flavors and the lengthy heritage of the Mediterranean palate. The perfect destination for a date night, or to impress out-of-town guests, Parea Bistro will be sure to entice all types of diners with this novel approach to classic Greek food.

Fatty Crab – West Village

Zakary Pelaccio’s popular group of Fatty restaurants has expanded even further, taking New York City by storm with his new Southeast Asian-inspired fare. A thrilling exploration of all things spicy, sour, sweet, and bitter, these casual eateries continue Pelaccio’s trend of outrageously flavorful and brazenly original fare. It has been hailed by critics as “innovative”, “creative”, and even “irresistible”. Now, with discounts from Savored, it’s time to venture into this new flavor dimension and take it for a spin yourself!

Pomodoro Rosso

A universally beloved Italian restaurant on the Upper West Side, Pomodoro Rosso’s acclaim is affirmed time and time again by Taste Savant users and critics alike. It’s unassuming exterior hides a true gastronomic gem, serving up some of the best comfort-Italian food in New York City. One of Taste Savant’s toughest critics recalled that her party of six “loved every single one of our dishes.” Perfect for casual get togethers, Pomodoro Rosso is sure to engender that warm and fuzzy feeling we all get when digging into a huge plate of fresh, homemade pasta.

Maya

A culinary oasis on the Upper East Side, one Taste Savant user assured the “food is worth the travel.” Offering some of the most inventive and delicious Mexican food in New York City, Maya will be sure to please a vast spectrum of diners, from those in search of a family friendly joint to those looking to impress a first date. The festive decor perfectly complements the flavorful food; highlights include a subtle roasted corn soup and a luscious grilled pork in a pumpkin seed sauce.

Latin Flavors Get a Sleek West Village Upgrade

Among the snazzy sandwich shops and trendy taquerias of Manhattan’s West Village sits an unassuming restaurant, bannered with the namesake leaf; Yerba Buena Perry calls to mind an idyllic Havana cabana of our dreams. Perfectly clean cocktails slide across a marble bar, featuring Latin flavors and spices. Entrust in the congenial staff, who are quick to endorse their favorite dishes, and encourage sharing. If you have a proclivity for pork belly, and a thirst for a flawless piña colada, Yerba Buena Perry has the recipe for success.

Fresh WatermelonThe Sandia

Tres Leches Churros

Yerba's Banquettes Piña Colada

Pictured in order of appearance, Fresh Watermelon, The Sandia, Black Corn Meal Calamari, Hojas de Salmon, Black Cod and Peruvian Corn Puree, Tres Leches and Churros,  The Piña Colada

No Need to Fish for Compliments: Mizu

Don’t be quick to judge, but when I heard about a BYOB spot in Grammercy, I stopped short and booked a reservation. Mizu happens to hold another allure. Extraordinarily, the restaurant boasts some excellent Japanese cuisine, with a flair for creative sushi rolls and a  hip young following. The restaurant is a hop skip and a jump from union square, and I recommend booking a reservation, as they were busy when we arrived Friday night. Low lighting warms the restaurant and draws attention to the spotlit open kitchen in the back, where Sushi chefs wield impressive knives. After reopening under new management, the restaurant sports a sleek new design with soft bamboo augmenting a crisp steel and glass interior.

After our wine was brought back on ice with a flourish, we began with their Tuna Tataki; chunks of moist fish are enlivened by a spicy house sauce. They choose to keep the recipe a secret, so I will have to return frequently to pacify this new craving. A salad came out next, and their ginger dressing was just the way I like it, crisp and clean, while managing to have a scarce kick at the end. The Wild Roll is a doozy –  spicy scallop, avocado and caviar are wrapped in soft seaweed and topped with spicy tuna flake. I’m a fan of inventive rolls, and I had trouble picking this one out of a smorgasbord of options, featuring roe, eel and even jalapeno and basil. We also sampled their sushi plate, which provided high quality fish, prepared to perfection.

If fish is something you would rather see encased in fried dough, Mizu’s shrimp tempura udon has a big following and packs a flavor punch of rich-in-pork broth and succulent wheat noodles. They emphatically carry traditional Japanese dishes alongside rolls like the Pink Roll, an in house specialty with a daring pink soy wrap. So, for the pescatarian and the chicken teryaki lover alike, book a reservation, pick up a bottle of wine, and join the Mizu fan club; you won’t find yourself alone.

Sue Perette: A Brooklyn Tour de Force

At Sue Perette, a new Brooklyn bistro on Smith street, you can find the chef Benoit Rouan completing his tour de force; an ambitious rotating menu featuring a new traditional region of France each month. Aptly called a Tour de France, the menu takes its inspiration from each region, this month drawing from Franche Comte, where brooks and fisheries are abound, and of course, fromageries are plentiful. The little restaurant, settled into the heart of Brooklyn’s booming restaurant row has a big mission. Like the original Parisian incarnations, this true French gem prides itself on offering traditionally prepared dishes, while the new monthly menu excites the locals and brings fresh and seasonal ingredients to their keen Carroll Gardens following.

Details like the timely arrival of an infused olive oil, presented in a petite ramekin, and fresh bread from a local Brooklyn bakery were not under-appreciated by me and my hungry dining partner. The octopus starter was lusciously crisp, perfectly grilled and delicately plated. You could feel the polished french artistry as the pieces of tender tentacle melt in your mouth. The mussel stew with a fish sauce of trout and salmon was an exquisite dish. Though, to call the fish medley a sauce might be a bit deceiving. The large chunks of lightly seared fresh fish swam in a light cream, and were highlights of the flavor profiles. They call it the Atlantic answer to Bouillabaisse. I call it the perfect spring dish.

When done properly, a souffle is a joy of flavor, impossibly light and never, never, never comes out from the oven less than perfectly puffed. Consider Sue Perette’s chocolate fondant souffle their Arc de Triomphe. Whichever regions of France you visit with their dynamic menu, make this your ultimate destination. The airy souffle manages to simultaneously produce an unbridled rich creamy flavor.

When it comes to Wine, Sue Perette practices a xenophobia I can stand behind. The list of French wines features an intimate group from different regions. We chose a 2010 Domaine Puech Cocut Pinot Noir, befitting to the Burgundy regionally inspired meal. All in all, Sue Perette is worth frequenting and I’ll surely return for the next savory voyage.

And Then There Were Three

Recently, I was asked what my favorite picks would be from our site. I proceeded to provide a long, scattered, impossible-to-follow list of restaurants, which led me to steer that person even more astray than they were before they asked for my opinion.  In an effort to make amends for confusing that poor soul, I sat down and thought, hard, and came up with a solid list of three. Each embody a cuisine that I can’t live without (seriously, if you asked me what cuisine I would pick if I could only eat one for the rest of my life, I would torture myself deciding over these three), and they’re so great in so many ways in addition to the food that comes out of their kitchens, they’re a Savored must. I hope you find this list as helpful as I found it challenging to make!

Betel

Besides a personal connection with the restaurant, I can’t get enough of the exciting and authentic Thai cuisine that comes out of Betel’s kitchen. Intimate and sultry, Betel is nestled on the West Village’s idyllic Grove Street, and boasts a chic interior designed by critically acclaimed Martin Brudzinki. While the beauty of the dining room is not to be overlooked, the real magic at Betel comes from Chef Adam Woodfield. A veteran chef at some of the most renowned Thai restaurants in the world, Woodfield’s goal is to serve exciting renditions of Thai cuisine that reflects the hawker stalls found on his journeys through Thailand. The ‘Hama Hama’ oyster, pork and prawn dumplings and strawberry mojito are not to be missed.

Ofrenda

If you’re in search of a fun meal with great food, look no further than this 7th Avenue location. While I’ve found that Mexican restaurants always carry a notable amount of punch, Ofrenda separates itself from the rest with its inspired dishes created by Chef-Owner Luis Arce Mota’s family recipes. Ofrenda’s cozy dining room boasts an atmosphere that is lively and welcoming—and its cocktail program ain’t too shabby either. I can’t stop thinking about the quesadilla with Oaxaca cheese and the grilled hanger steak.

Spina

Thoughts of Spina literally bring a smile to my face, as it is the epitome of authentic charm, appealing to the vivacious and fun-loving East Village crowd. Situated perfectly on the corner of 11th St. and Avenue B, this cozy Italian trattoria specializes in house-made pastas and a carefully crafted wine list. The service will make you swoon, the pasta is unforgettable, and its prime corner location is a great spot for lingering over a few glasses and a bit of people watching. You can’t go wrong with any selections from the menu—especially the pastas—and while I don’t know exactly what crudo special they’ll be offering when you go, I strongly urge you to try it.

Behind the Counter at Le Comptoir

Le Comptoir, simply translated means “the counter” – however, in France the nuances of this phrase hint at a longstanding tradition of culinary outposts.  The 2012 Diner’s Choice winner Le Comptoir in Williamsburg certainly pulls its inspiration from this convention. The modest bar and restaurant invites you into the candlelit dining area, walking past a long bar replete with French wines.

We were presented with a list of delightfully inventive and sometimes suggestive cocktails. I loved the Lemon Incest, which had a kick of red peppercorn. The Comic Strip was equally beguiling, offering fresh notes of cucumber and parsley. Our server coquettishly slid across the wine list, a polished selection of french reds and whites that are sure to please.

To begin the meal, we were presented with an ethereal Goat Cheese Crostini, the perfect rusty broil topped the toasted brioche which was seated on a bright and sweet shaved fennel salad. Their roasted brussel sprouts were a beautiful specimen of developed flavor, maintaining the essence of the crunchy vegetable.

The menu offers bistro staples like the haute burger, in addition to a slew of traditional dishes. The Tuna Tartare Japonais is enlivened with bits of brioche croutons. We delighted in a surprisingly light braised short rib and parmesan risotto, which thoughtfully features the quality of the meat, falling off the bone and packed with flavor.

Befitting to our perfect meal, we ended on a traditional note, with their effervescent floating islands, leaning back with generous glasses of Pinot Noir.  The proprietor of the kitchen was all the while modestly sampling and testing dishes in the open kitchen, which served up our entertainment for the evening. Le Comptoir has a strong constituency in Williamsburg so make sure to snag a reservation. The simple and perfect fare imbued our confidence in the restaurant’s success, recently earning a number of accolades including top rankings in Zagat.

Fatty ‘Cue Late Night Smokes up the West Village

Fatty ‘Cue: everything about their name beckons me.  Simple and self explanatory, it hints at the acute smell of wood fire and pork fat. Gluttons prepare for the recently added Fatty ‘Cue Late Night Menu, featured Thursday-Saturday at the new West Village hot spot.  Just off Carmine Street, this Malaysian barbecue joint offers a real nightcap, the newest spot brought to us by the Seasoned Fatty Crew, masterminds behind its sister restaurant Fatty Crab.

Waiting at the black tile bar, we are surrounded by a hipster crowd resting their flannel elbows on the dark wood tables of the restaurant’s banquette tables and booths. The bartender is kept busy by the throngs but still managed to give us informative lesson on the nuances of their imaginative cocktails. We perused the menu and were enthused by a selective list of impossible prospects. The Smokin’ Bone is a drink that will do the trick while managing to taste like the wonderful char on a rack of ribs. Or go for the Shaolin Sour, named after a style of Kung Fu martial arts.  If you aren’t up for something so conceptual, they do sell tall boys there (they aren’t ashamed to admit it) and of course, there’s a list of beers on tap.

Their Late Night Menu kicks off at 12 AM, a peculiar time for supper, screams the Minnesotan in me, but here in New York, the place is packed.  The menu is brief, but every item is astounding. Seating us at a thick wooden bench, our waiter passes us the clipboard late night menus with a glimmer in his eye. Surprisingly, the menu offers up a couple healthy starters, and we kick off the meal with a salad, which rolls with large perfect chunks of sharp clothbound cheddar and ambrosial apples doused in a light cider vinigarette.

The ½ pound of deep fried bacon is a house favorite of the late night crowd, and the dish hints at coriander and has a lightly sweet verde salsa on it, to compliment the smokey flavor of the thick cut bacon. We braved the Trippa, a Malaysian prepared tripe which is not for the faint of heart. It is bathed in a red tomato curry sauce, and, beholden to the true funky flavors of Malaysia, it has a fierce tang of anchovy. The Heritage Pork Ribs are smoked to perfection, falling off the bone and succulent on the inside, smooth and crisped on the outside, featuring their signature fish sauce and palm sugar coating.  The generous pair of ribs are emboldened by a kick from Indonesian long pepper and were exhaustively delicious.

Cross culture influences shine at this Fatty Crab offshoot, where the drinks are strong and the Asian flavor gives a multifarious shake up to the West Village. Highly recommended after a big night out, Fatty ‘Cue will captivate you from start to finish. We may have left the place stuffed, but I can’t wait to book my next reservation, and can only imagine what the Fatty Crew has in store for their spring menu.